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Hey Reader, Ever wondered if you're using the wrong sandpaper grit and wasting hours sanding unnecessarily? I used to spend way too long prepping projects—until I learned sanding comes down to just two things: the wood's initial condition and your intended finish. So in this email, I'm going to show you a simple, easy-to-follow approach that'll speed up your sanding and get you finishing faster than ever. Get Off to The Right Start: One common mistake people make is starting sanding too aggressively, leaving deep scratches that require extra work later. For most projects, 120-grit sandpaper is ideal—it smooths the wood without creating deep marks you'll need to remove later with finer grits. If your wood is especially rough or has noticeable planer marks, start with something coarser—like 100 or even 80-grit. These grits remove material faster, saving you time and effort. Keep sanding until all rough spots disappear. Finish Strong: Think of sanding like preparing a canvas for painting. Too rough, and the paint won't flow smoothly. Too smooth, and the paint won't adhere properly. Similarly, sanding too little leaves swirl marks and rough spots; sanding too much can seal the wood pores, preventing stains and dyes from absorbing evenly. Here's the trick: choose your final sandpaper grit based on your finishing method.
Fill in the Middle: Now work through your grits step by step. Resist the urge to skip grits, this can leave scratch marks that will be harder to sand out at higher grits. For example, your project isn't too rough, so you don't need to remove a lot of material, and you plan on using a stain before the topcoat. Your sanding progressio should look like this:
A couple more quick tips:
And remember—replace your sandpaper often. Worn sandpaper only smooths the wood and can make your work take longer. Follow these simple sanding guidelines, and you'll achieve professional-looking results every single time. Now, go build something awesome! John - Biscuit Tree Woodworks p.s. Need plans for your next project? Instantly download high quality plans: https://www.biscuittreewoodworks.com/products p.p.s. What is biggest woodworking problem you are facing? Reply to this email and let me know, it just might be my next video! |
Are you ready to take your woodworking projects to the next level? I teach beginner and intermediate woodworkers how to build awesome projects while saving them money on tools and equipment! I make tool and technique videos, downloadable woodworking project plans, tips and tricks, and more!!
Videos | Plans | Tools Hey Reader, Sanding is easily the least favorite part of the job for most of us, so it’s tempting to rush through it. But if you move too fast, you end up with those annoying pigtail swirls or blotchy spots once the finish hits the wood. A quick way to get a professional look is the 50% overlap rule. When you’re using a random orbital sander, move it about one inch per second. That feels painfully slow, but it’s what the tool needs to actually do its job. On your next...
Videos | Plans | Tools Hey Reader, We’ve all been there. You start spreading glue, the clock starts ticking, and suddenly you realize a tenon is too long or you forgot to sand an inside corner. Now you’re rushing to fix it before the glue sets and the stress levels are through the roof! My #1 rule to avoid that is to always, and I mean ALWAYS, do a dry fit first! I never put glue on a joint until the entire project is assembled with clamps just as it will be when I do apply the glue. It lets...
Hey Reader, There’s nothing more frustrating than getting to the end of a project, trying to glue up a box or a drawer, and realizing the corners just won't seat right. Usually, we blame our technique or the wood. But sometimes, the tool actually is the problem. Even a brand-new square from the hardware store can be off by a degree or two, and over a long cut, that adds up fast. Here is a 30 second test to check yours: Grab a scrap piece of plywood with a straight factory edge. Draw a line...